Chikankari- The pride of Lucknowi Nawabs

Chikankaari is one of the most exquisite and well-known Handicrafts in the country that dates back over 400 years. It was first practised by the nawabs of Lucknow, making the city its hub. The word Chikankari gets its name from the Persian word “Chikin” or “Chakeen”, which simply means an embroidered fabric.

The origins of this exquisite art remain hidden in the midst of the past. Yet, there are several tales believed by the masses. One of them depicts that a traveller introduced it in the 3rd Century to a peasant in return for drinking water.

On the other hand, the most believable story was introduced by none other than Noor Jaha, a Mughal empress and the wife of Jahangir in the 17th-century, getting inspired by a Persian.

When the Britishers invaded India, and the Mughul Dynasty came to an end, the practice of Chikankari decreased at an abnormal pace. Still, the nawabs of Lucknow kept their culture, making Lucknow the hub for this historic handicraft.

The Making Of A Chikankari Fabric

Chikankari fabrics can be created in hundreds of different ways, but to understand it simply, there are five main steps involved.

• Design: First and foremost, the design of the fabric is finalized according to the needs.
• Engraving the art: Now comes the fascinating part. After deciding the design of the fabric, it is either engraved or carved on a wooden block.
• The block printing process: The fabric is then carved by the block with the help of “neel” or “safada” dyes.
• Neelremarkable embroidery: The fabric, after getting carved, gets in the magical hands of the people who have spent their life learning this beautiful work. The fabric is tightly placed in a small-sized hoop or frame, after which the design is stitched with the help of a needle. The use of stitches purely depends on the type of design, the size of motifs, and many more aspects. Chikankaari uses hemstitch, chain stitch, backstitch, and jali work in most cases.
• The final product after washing and finishing: After completing the embroidery, the fabric is carefully appropriately washed to get rid of the printed design traces. At last, the fabric is starched to acquire the desired stiffness.

Global Appreciation

The Art of Chikankaari, after getting extinct in the British phase, bounced back in the industrial era of the nation. The work of Chikankaari got commercialized on a global scale. The Bollywood film industry, as well as the top-notch designers of the country, played a significant role in promoting this beautiful art, helping in restoring its lost respect and legacy, which it always deserved.

As of now, the Chikankaari of Lucknow is in great demand by the masses.

It was even appreciated at the Oscars, adding another excellent handicraft achievement. Chikankaari is presently considered a statement of high fashion, making it a premium work of art.

Aid by the Uttar Pradesh Government

Despite the Global appreciation and the commercialization of Chikankaari, it is on the verge of getting extinct. This is why the UP Government, led by Yogi Adityanath, has taken the necessary actions to uplift the culture of Chikankaari in the State.

The ODOP(One District One State) scheme launched by the CM has proven to be a success in bringing back the lost legacy of the State. It was founded on 24th January 2018 on the occasion of Uttar Pradesh Divas. This project aims to visualize and assist in selling specialized products and crafts, creating employment in the State.

Some of the schemes, such as the Common Facility Centre Scheme, Marketing Development Assistance Scheme, and many more, are actively helping the artisans of the State promote their art, keeping the culture alive.